Plate No. 023fabric
First documented
1600s
Fiber
cotton
Weave
3/1 warp-faced twill
Family
twills

Plate No. 023 · fabric

Denim

Denim is a warp-faced cotton twill: an indigo warp floats over three white weft picks and under one, so the face reads deep blue while the underside stays pale. That construction explains nearly everything people like about denim, from the diagonal wale to the way it fades, since abrasion wears the indigo off the crowns of the floats and exposes the white core of the yarn. The cloth took its name from Nîmes and its fame from the riveted work trousers of the American West.

Illustration: American railroad workers in the 1880s seen at a distance laying track in a desert cut, faded indigo overalls and jackets, wooden water tower, long shadows
American railroad workers in the 1880s seen at a distance laying track in a desert cut, faded indigo overalls and jackets, wooden water tower, long shadows.

Named for

From serge de Nîmes, the sturdy twill of the French city of Nîmes, clipped in English to denim.

In the record

  • 1873Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis patented riveted denim work trousers, fixing the cloth to the blue jean.

Often confused with

From the journal

  1. 1.Denim, Wikipedia
  2. 2.Jeans, Encyclopaedia Britannica